Introduction: Frankenciser - Bike Computing device Acclivity to a Vintage Friction Exercise Bike

This is a follow-on to the Frankenciser - Magnetic Resistance Promote to a Vintage Friction Usage Bike.

The mechanical speedometer and digital timekeeper on my 1980's Panasonic Unfashionable-1000 flywheel exercycle still work fine. The bike is direct tug, no coasting, so cadence is a function of miles-per-hour. Easy sufficient to figure and build a graph. However, I wanted metre, sentence, and miles-per-minute in a nice, easy, alphanumeric display. I wanted "modern".

I looked at a bunch of bike computers and decided on the CatEye Strada Cadence Bike Estimator CC-RD200. Information technology had the features I wanted, good reviews, and estimable dependableness feedback.

Putting it together is deltoid erstwhile you see taboo how to position the sensors. IT is a trifle different than the Instructable Add Metre/Speed/Odometer to Your Spin Bike, principally with the positioning of the sensors. It seems the gaps are bigger on the Panasonic.

Close to Cateye reviewers said that they couldn't get the detector and magnet to work with more than a 3 mm gap. The instructions for the bicycle computer as wel sound out not to pass 3 millimetre. This install has about 10 mm gaps and works smooth. I think IT may have to do with correctly orientating the magnet to where the sensor is actually located in each living accommodations and reduced break of the magnetic field by using not-magnetic materials A spacers. The sensor is in the middle of the cadence sensor and in the tip of the wheel sensor.

Parts

1 ea - CatEye Strada Cadence Cycle Computer 200-RD200

1 Ea - 1-1/4 column inch dowel (2-1/2 inches long)

1 ea - Self viscous cable tie base

10 ea - Cable ties, from the kit out

2 ea - 12" cable ties, for the cadence sensor and spacer

1 Ea - 8" cable tie, for the flywheel attractor

1 ea - Right Bright 40516 XtraFlex2 Book Light

Dowels go in "wood", maybe poplar tree, and "hardwood", maybe oak, and either will work for this intent. They do, however, take soil and paint differently if you are planning on "dressing upbound" the spacer.

Tools

Cable tie tensity gun (see note)

Pull cutters (Beaver State other cutters)

Sawing machine

Incomplete round file or rasp

Hand-operated, CatEye Strada Cadence Bike Computer CC-RD200 (a PDF is available, look for CATEYE STRADA Meter ENG)

Bank note: I give birth a no-name version of a "Gardner Bender CTT-45 Cable Tie Tensioning Tool" that I bought tattily. It served its determination but I wished I had spent a few dollars more for a more consistent instrument. During this project, I bought a Felix Klein Tools 86570 Nylon Tie Tensioning Tool and am pleased with it.

Note: Right the accustomed admonition to use safety equipment and to be elaborated of hot, astute, or rotating parts and equipment.

Step 1: Cadence Attractor, Sensor, and Spacer

Preparation

1. The sensors connected a street or road bike are attached inside inches of each other, on the crank and bottom bore. On a flywheel exercise bike, they are separated by feet. Fortuitously, the conducting wire used on the Cateye is "cipher wire" that allows the joined wire to be distributed.

2. Hold a electrify (not the sensor) in each hand and pull slowly and smoothly. You leave pauperization about 28 inches of free wire for the cadence sensor.

3. Read the manual. Setting IT functioning is not "self-generated".

Cadence attractive feature, sensor, and spacer

You wish need to have the display attached to match the functionality before you lock the parts down.

1. The cadence detector and attraction are located on the side of the exercycle opposite the chain. Still, on that point is too much outstrip from the pedal crank arm to the hindquarters tube for the sensing element to notice the magnet. A spacer has to be made.

2. Cut a spacer (1-1/4 in diameter dowel) to 2-1/2 inches long. File a concave channel astir 3/4 inches wide on the long dimension of the dowel with a half-round file operating theatre wood file.

3. If you desire to fit out information technology up with paint, blot, or a wrap, now is the time.

4. Attach the spacer and cadence sensing element to the seat tube, just above the bottom angle bracket, with cardinal retentive cable ties. Pull the cable ties snug merely not tight.

5. Impound the magnet to the inside of the methamphetamine arm with unmatched cable tie so it passes over the middle of the sensor. Pull the cable television service tie snug but not waterproofed.

6. Primed the video display to Cadence and slowly rotate the crank to affirm that the sensor and attractive feature works. Adjust the position of the sensor surgery magnet if it doesn't.

7. When it kit and caboodle consistently, tighten the cable length ties. Cut the tails squarely at the locking head. You don't want pointy ends sticking out that can horn in or scratch.

8. Bind the cadence wire from the seat electron tube awake to the head tube victimisation the kit's ties. Make steady you are not going to catch the wire while riding or acquiring on or off the exercycle.

Promissory note: Some reviews said that they couldn't stupefy the sensor and attractor to work on many than 3 mm but I didn't cause that problem.

Tone 2: Wheel Sensor, Magnet, and Spacer

Wheel sensor, magnet, and spacer

You will need to have the display related to check the functionality before you lock the parts down.

1. The wheel sensor and magnet are located unofficially of the exercycle opposite the chain. However, there is too very much distance from the crotch tube to the flywheel for the sensor to detect the magnet. A spacer has to be made.

2. Attach the speed sensing element to the inside of the fork tube with two cable system ties. Wrench the cablegram ties secure but not stingy.

3. Attach a self adhesive cable draw base to the side of the flywheel in a position corresponding to the tap of the sensor.

4. Slip a tie through the magnet base and the adhesive base. Pull the cable to form a ring so the attraction is approximately the sensor without hit the sensor.

5. Bent the display to Miles per Hour and slowly splay the crank to substantiate that the sensor and magnet works. Adjust the position of the sensor if it doesn't.

6. When it works consistently, tighten the cable ties. Cut forth the tails straightforwardly at the locking head. You don't want pointy ends sticking out that can poke or scrawl.

7. Bind the flywheel electrify to the crotch tube-shaped structure sprouted to the read/write head tube. Make predestinate you are not going to catch the wire while riding or getting on Beaver State off the workout bike.

Finish

1. Slide the display off and jump on the bracket to the handlebars. The bracket does a surprisingly good task of clamping.

2. Neatly gather and corral the excess sensor wire and find an extinct of the way topographic point to gather the bundle, like under the "instrument panel".

3. Program the display per the manual:

3.1. Wheel natural selection

3.2. Wheel size in millimeter – measure the diameter and calculate the circumference (3.1416 x the diameter). Just for nostalgia, I set it so that it equaled the mechanised speedometer.

3.3. Time mise en scene

3.4. Total distance hand-operated entry

3.5. Speed unit

4. Wrap some Velcro around the handlebar and attach the Mighty Bright as a new penny 40516 XtraFlex2 Book Light-footed. Adjust it so it lights up the display without reflecting off the display Beaver State the chromium-plate.

You are ready to rag.

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